Michael Clarke
What is it about Iceland and hot water? Surrounded by spectacular, if black-sanded, beaches, somehow the sea never really thaws into the sort of double figure temperatures that make beach parties or surfing more than a wiener-shrinking daredevil experience for a few leather-skinned diehards. So beach life is not really on. Amazingly though, hot water comes bubbling out of the ground, all over the place. Workers on the new tunnel under Vaðlaheiði nearly ended up as human hot dogs recently when they blasted into a 50 degree hot spring. Work inside the tunnel is now shirtless and sweaty, and a steamy torrent charges its way from the entrance cascading down the hill into the sea. Hopefully someone will quickly find the cash to open a resort down on the beach below.
But the real beach life is at the swimming pool. I must admit that I found the stripping-off-and-washing-your-privates part a bit perturbing at first. I am English, after all, and I say Steady on Old Chap!-but over the years one gets used to it.
Still-it is always a bit strange confronting respected priests, politicians, teachers, and dignitaries au naturelle face to face with nothing to hide behind. And keep looking them in the eye!
As the pool is open all year round, it is most of the time cold unless you are under water. Even in the hot pots. And there are lots of them.
In the pots the future of the country is determined. There are always a few who steer the conversation. Others just listen. They appear not to. But little, almost imperceptible smiles give them away. You have to be careful, as they know Everybody in Town. Newspapers run gossip columns on what is heard there.
There is expensive exercise equipment set up outside. Nobody ever uses it, as it is freezing most of the time. If you touch the bare metal your flesh sticks.
There are two swimming styles:
Swimming like a pro bobbling up and down in the water.
Keeping your head well above the surface and looking like a twit.
If you choose the first you have to realise that if you stop for a breather your sodden hair will freeze solid.
There are hot springs and hot rivers dotted here and there around the country. Taking your clothes off in the middle of the highlands and lying in warm mud is something everyone should have an Instagram™ of, or a Selfie™ to send to friends.
Then, of course, there are the hot tubs. Lucky cabin owners have them. And there you can warm 90% of you body in the hot water and the other 10% with a good strong drink. And then it is the best possible place in the world to be! All Inclusive! Northern lights above, snowfields all around. You are warm and happy. Until you have to get out.
